{"id":19973,"date":"2025-05-07T16:47:54","date_gmt":"2025-05-07T14:47:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wanderers.hu\/?p=19973"},"modified":"2025-05-07T16:51:12","modified_gmt":"2025-05-07T14:51:12","slug":"danakil-melyfold-a-pokol-kapuja-afrika-elmenybeszamolo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wanderers.hu\/2025\/05\/07\/danakil-melyfold-a-pokol-kapuja-afrika-elmenybeszamolo\/","title":{"rendered":"A pokol kapui: t\u00e1jak Afrika legm\u00e9lyebb \u00e9s legforr\u00f3bb szeglet\u00e9ben\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u201eAz \u00edg\u00e9retekkel szemben itt m\u00e9g 50 fok sincs!\u201d \u2013 panaszkodik nevetve egy utast\u00e1rsam.\u00a0\u201e\u00c1rny\u00e9kban m\u00e9red. De mi a napon vagyunk\u201d \u2013 mutatok a h\u0151m\u00e9r\u0151re, ami 58.6 Celsius fokot mutat \u00e9ppen a Land Cruiser l\u00f6kh\u00e1r\u00edt\u00f3j\u00e1ra t\u00e1masztva. A Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld ter\u00fclet\u00e9n aut\u00f3zunk, a F\u00f6ld legforr\u00f3bb hely\u00e9n, \u00e9s b\u00e9na humorral pr\u00f3b\u00e1ljuk elviselni valahogy az \u00e9lhetetlen kl\u00edm\u00e1t. \u00c1prilis van. M\u00e9g szerencse, hogy nem a ny\u00e1ri melegben j\u00f6tt\u00fcnk.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

K\u00e9t napja m\u00e9g az Eti\u00f3p-felf\u00f6ld\u00f6n, a Simien-hegys\u00e9gben t\u00far\u00e1ztunk. Tengerszint felett 3200 m\u00e9ter alatt egy percet sem t\u00f6lt\u00f6tt\u00fcnk, \u00e9s elk\u00e9pzelni is neh\u00e9z volt, hogy nemsok\u00e1ra arr\u00f3l fogunk besz\u00e9lgetni, hogy szeretn\u00e9nk \u00fajra f\u00e1zni.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Dallol<\/a>
Dallol k\u00e9nes, vasas, s\u00f3s geol\u00f3gi\u00e1ja<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A F\u00f6ld legforr\u00f3bb pontja<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nemcsak a kl\u00edma<\/a> \u00e9lhetetlen. \u00d3r\u00e1k \u00f3ta l\u00e1vamez\u0151k\u00f6n \u00e9s l\u00e1vamez\u0151k mellett z\u00f6tyk\u00f6l\u0151d\u00fcnk. A l\u00e1vamez\u0151n rosszabb. Az \u00fatnak haszn\u00e1lt, bizony\u00e1ra ember alkotta k\u00e9pz\u0151dm\u00e9nyen az ut\u00f3bbi egy \u00f3r\u00e1ban alig t\u00f6bb, mint t\u00edz kilom\u00e9tert tett\u00fcnk meg. Mehetn\u00e9nk kicsit gyorsabban is, de senkinek sincs kedve se kereket cser\u00e9lni, se ker\u00e9kcsere idej\u00e9re kisz\u00e1llni a kocsib\u00f3l, \u00edgy k\u00edm\u00e9lj\u00fck a felszerel\u00e9st.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Id\u0151nk\u00e9nt m\u00e9gis felbukkan egy-egy falu, pontosabban egy-k\u00e9t l\u00e1vak\u0151b\u0151l \u00e9p\u00edtett girbegurba hajl\u00e9k. Ameddig a szem ell\u00e1t, mindenfel\u00e9 fekete l\u00e1va, sehol egy fa, esetleg n\u00e9ha egy f\u0171csom\u00f3. \u00c9s egy semmib\u0151l semmibe tart\u00f3 ember, aki ki tudja, milyen egy\u00fctt\u00e1ll\u00e1snak k\u00f6sz\u00f6nhet\u0151en sz\u00fcletett ide. Afarok \u00e9lnek ezen a vid\u00e9ken, els\u0151sorban p\u00e1sztorkod\u00e1ssal \u00e9s s\u00f3kereskedelemmel foglalkoz\u00f3, f\u00e9lnom\u00e1d t\u00f6rzsek.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ne hagyd ki az orsz\u00e1gr\u00f3l k\u00e9sz\u00fclt\u00a0\u00e1tfog\u00f3 tud\u00e1st\u00e1runkat<\/a>! Tapasztalt utaz\u00f3k hiteles \u00e9s hasznos inform\u00e1ci\u00f3i. Minden, amit Eti\u00f3pia kapcs\u00e1n tudni \u00e9rdemes a l\u00e1tnival\u00f3kr\u00f3l, nemzeti parkokr\u00f3l \u00e9s kult\u00far\u00e1r\u00f3l.\u00a0Megn\u00e9zem<\/a>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A h\u0151s\u00e9g naplemente k\u00f6r\u00fcl sem enyh\u00fcl. Meg\u00e1llunk piknikezni a Kar\u00fam-t\u00f3 s\u00f3val bor\u00edtott felsz\u00edn\u00e9n. A horizont elt\u0171nik, a feh\u00e9r s\u00f3s v\u00e9gtelen k\u00e9ken t\u00fckr\u00f6zi vissza az eget kelet fel\u00e9, narancssz\u00ednben a lemen\u0151 napot nyugatnak. Er\u0151s sz\u00e9l f\u00faj, ami nem enyh\u00edt a melegen. Mintha hajsz\u00e1r\u00edt\u00f3 el\u0151tt vagy sug\u00e1rhajt\u00f3m\u0171 m\u00f6g\u00f6tt lenn\u00e9nk, viszi a m\u0171anyag asztalt \u00e9s a sz\u00e9keket, mi k\u00f6zben hanyatt fekve n\u00e9zz\u00fck az els\u0151 csillagokat a viharos sz\u00e9lben. \u00c9jszak\u00e1ra sz\u00f3ba sem j\u00f6het a s\u00e1traz\u00e1s, eukaliptuszb\u00f3l eszk\u00e1b\u00e1lt \u00e1gyakban alszunk szabad \u00e9g alatt. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"A<\/a>
A forr\u00f3s\u00e1gban a s\u00e1torban alv\u00e1s nem opci\u00f3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
A Danakil legbuj\u00e1bb n\u00f6v\u00e9nyzete a l\u00e1vamez\u0151 k\u00f6zep\u00e9n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reggel visszat\u00e9r\u00fcnk a Kar\u00fam-t\u00f3 s\u00f3s felsz\u00edn\u00e9re csobbanni egyet. Ahogy kisz\u00e1radt \u00e9s n\u00e9ha \u00fajra \u00e1tnedvesedett az \u00fcled\u00e9k, szab\u00e1lytalan soksz\u00f6gekbe rendez\u0151d\u00f6tt a felsz\u00edne. Alattunk a F\u00f6ld egyik legs\u00f3sabb tava. A s\u00f3s fel\u00fclet annyira sima, hogy gond n\u00e9lk\u00fcl lehet v\u00e9gsebess\u00e9gig p\u00f6rgetni a terepj\u00e1r\u00f3kat. A csobban\u00e1s nem friss\u00edt a mind\u00f6ssze p\u00e1r m\u00e9teres l\u00e9kszer\u0171 lyukban. Az extr\u00e1n s\u00f3s meleg v\u00edz ut\u00e1n musz\u00e1j megint mosakodni. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Naplemente<\/a>
Naplemente a Kar\u00fam t\u00f3 felett<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Karum<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Egy kis f\u00f6ldrajz <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nem titok, hogy eti\u00f3piai utunk f\u0151 tematik\u00e1ja a legmagasabb \u00e9s legm\u00e9lyebb pontok megl\u00e1togat\u00e1sa volt. El\u0151bbi a Simien-hegys\u00e9gben a 4543 m\u00e9ter magas Ras Dashen cs\u00facs volt. Ut\u00f3bbihoz a Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld ter\u00fclet\u00e9re kellett elzar\u00e1ndokolni, \u00e9s leaut\u00f3zni b\u0151ven tengerszint al\u00e1. K\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151 forr\u00e1sokat \u00e1tlagolva k\u00f6r\u00fclbel\u00fcl 120 m\u00e9terrel. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld egykor a V\u00f6r\u00f6s-tenger r\u00e9sze volt. \u00dagy 30 ezer \u00e9vvel ezel\u0151tt vulk\u00e1ni m\u0171k\u00f6d\u00e9sek \u00e9s tektonikus mozg\u00e1sok hat\u00e1s\u00e1ra elz\u00e1r\u00f3dott a tengert\u0151l, \u00e9s a vize elkezdett elp\u00e1rologni. \u00c9vezredekkel k\u00e9s\u0151bbre \u00e1tlagosan 800 m\u00e9ter vastag s\u00f3r\u00e9teg halmoz\u00f3dott fel, \u00e9s alapozta meg az afarok s\u00f3kitermel\u00e9s\u00e9t \u00e9s s\u00f3biznisz\u00e9t. Az itt tal\u00e1lhat\u00f3 k\u0151s\u00f3 \u00e9s k\u00e1lis\u00f3 mennyis\u00e9g\u00e9t 290 milli\u00f3 tonn\u00e1ra teszik, amit az afarok k\u00e9zi er\u0151vel fejtenek \u00e9s tev\u00e9ken sz\u00e1ll\u00edtanak, \u00edgy konzervat\u00edv becsl\u00e9sek szerint is \u00e9vezredekre megvan a bev\u00e9tel, f\u0151leg, hogy a s\u00f3kiv\u00e1l\u00e1s folyamata jelenleg is zajlik.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Az Afar-medence legsz\u00ednesebb l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyoss\u00e1ga k\u00e9ts\u00e9gk\u00edv\u00fcl Dallol. Ezen a p\u00e1r n\u00e9gyzetkilom\u00e9teren minden mozg\u00e1sban van: g\u0151z\u00f6l\u00f6g, bugyog, forr, majd megszil\u00e1rdul. A vas, a k\u00e9n \u00e9s a r\u00e9z v\u00f6r\u00f6sre, s\u00e1rg\u00e1ra \u00e9s z\u00f6ldre sz\u00ednezi a s\u00f3s talajt, a vas oxid\u00e1ci\u00f3ja a barna minden \u00e1rnyalat\u00e1t felvonultatja. A sziv\u00e1rg\u00f3 v\u00edz medenc\u00e9ket alkot, amelyek er\u0151sen savasak, de a geol\u00f3gia egy\u00e9b, szokatlan mint\u00e1kat is eredm\u00e9nyez. Vir\u00e1gszer\u0171 krist\u00e1lyok, r\u00f3zs\u00e1k, toj\u00e1s alak\u00fa k\u00e9rgek, gejz\u00edrek, s\u00f3oszlopok l\u00e1that\u00f3k minden ir\u00e1nyban. L\u00e9pteinkkel ezeket a geol\u00f3giai csod\u00e1kat tessz\u00fck t\u00f6nkre, de az intenz\u00edv aktivit\u00e1snak h\u00e1la a felsz\u00edn gyorsan, ak\u00e1r napok alatt \u00e1trendez\u0151dik \u00e9s elt\u00fcnteti nyomainkat.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Dallol-hegy k\u00f6r\u00fclbel\u00fcl 60 m\u00e9terrel magasodik a k\u00f6rnyez\u0151 s\u00f3s s\u00edks\u00e1gok f\u00f6l\u00e9. A k\u00f6zep\u00e9n tal\u00e1lhat\u00f3 m\u00e9lyed\u00e9s alighanem egy beomlott kr\u00e1ter. A hegy d\u00e9lnyugati lejt\u0151in v\u00edz \u00e1ltal erod\u00e1lt s\u00f3hegyek, s\u00f3kanyonok, s\u00f3oszlopok \u00e9s s\u00f3t\u00f6mb\u00f6k eml\u00e9keztetnek az egykori tengerfen\u00e9kre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Dallol<\/a>
Dallol savas medenc\u00e9i 0 k\u00f6r\u00fcli pH \u00e9rt\u00e9kkel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dallol<\/a>
Dallol savas, k\u00e9nes vasas, s\u00f3s form\u00e1i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Toj\u00e1sh\u00e9jszer\u0171<\/a>
Toj\u00e1sh\u00e9jszer\u0171 k\u00e9pz\u0151dm\u00e9nyek s\u00f3b\u00f3l<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tavir\u00f3zs\u00e1ra<\/a>
Tavir\u00f3zs\u00e1ra eml\u00e9keztet\u00f3 oxid\u00e1l\u00f3dott vasas form\u00e1k Dallolban<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld, a pokol kapuj\u00e1ban <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Az Erta Ale (afar nyelven: a pokol kapuja) vulk\u00e1n miatt utaznak a legt\u00f6bben erre a kietlen (vagy \u00e9ppen kies) vid\u00e9kre. A F\u00f6ld\u00f6n \u00f6t l\u00e1vat\u00f3 tal\u00e1lhat\u00f3, abb\u00f3l ez az egyik. T\u00f6bb mint sz\u00e1z \u00e9ve folyamatosan akt\u00edv. Maga a vulk\u00e1n nem kifejezetten l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyos, egy hatsz\u00e1z m\u00e9ter magas, enyhe lejt\u0151j\u0171 pajzsvulk\u00e1n. A kr\u00e1ter perem\u00e9hez \u00e9rve azonnal megv\u00e1ltozik a meg\u00edt\u00e9l\u00e9se, amikor megpillantjuk a kr\u00e1terben megszil\u00e1rdult l\u00e1v\u00e1b\u00f3l kiemelked\u0151 izz\u00f3 szikl\u00e1kat, k\u00f6zelebb s\u00e9t\u00e1lva a l\u00e1vat\u00f3 m\u00e9lt\u00f3s\u00e1gteljes hull\u00e1mz\u00e1s\u00e1t \u00e9s f\u00e9lelmetes kit\u00f6r\u00e9seit. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld,<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Az<\/a>
Az Erta Ale 1200 fokos l\u00e1vatava<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"S\u00e9ta<\/a>
S\u00e9ta az Erta Ale kr\u00e1ter\u00e9ben<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Az<\/a>
Az Erta Ale l\u00e1vatava \u00e9jjel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Erta<\/a>
Erta Ale l\u00e1vatava<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Egykor naponta ak\u00e1r sz\u00e1z turista is megfordult erre, hogy a kr\u00e1ter perem\u00e9re \u00e9p\u00edtett hajl\u00e9kokban t\u00f6lts\u00e9k az \u00e9jszak\u00e1t, mialatt az \u00e9jszakai vulk\u00e1n f\u00e9nyeit b\u00e1mulj\u00e1k. M\u00e1sf\u00e9l \u00e9vtizeddel ezel\u0151tt azonban egy \u00e9jszakai t\u00e1mad\u00e1s<\/a> sor\u00e1n t\u00f6bb honfit\u00e1rsunkat is kiv\u00e9gezt\u00e9k ismeretlen fegyveresek, majd az Eti\u00f3pia \u00e9szaki r\u00e9sz\u00e9t s\u00fajt\u00f3 polg\u00e1rh\u00e1bor\u00fa tartotta t\u00e1vol a t\u00f6megeket. Az Erta Ale rossz h\u00edre nem \u00e1llt m\u00e9g helyre. Az egyed\u00fcl\u00e1ll\u00f3 term\u00e9szeti l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyoss\u00e1g ir\u00e1nti v\u00e1gy\u00f3d\u00e1s nem \u00edrta m\u00e9g fel\u00fcl a bizonytalans\u00e1gt\u00f3l val\u00f3 f\u00e9lelmet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A helyi korm\u00e1nyzat mindent megtesz, hogy visszat\u00e9rjenek a turist\u00e1k. A rettenetes utak hely\u00e9re pr\u00f3b\u00e1lnak haszn\u00e1lhat\u00f3 betoncs\u00edkot \u00e9p\u00edteni. \u00daj, nagyobb t\u00e1borhelyet jel\u00f6ltek ki, \u00e9s a helyben \u00e9l\u0151 afarok \u00e9letk\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00e9nyein is jav\u00edtanak, cser\u00e9be a biztons\u00e1g garant\u00e1l\u00e1s\u00e1\u00e9rt. A legk\u00f6zelebbi nagyv\u00e1ros, Szemera rep\u00fcl\u0151ter\u00e9t\u0151l m\u00e9g \u00edgy is 6-7 \u00f3ra utaz\u00e1s terepj\u00e1r\u00f3val el\u00e9rni az Erta Ale oldal\u00e1t. Jelenleg napi egy-k\u00e9t tucat turista bukkan fel errefel\u00e9, \u00e9s ez a trend \u00fagy t\u0171nik, m\u00e9g \u00e9vekig nem fog megv\u00e1ltozni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(Fot\u00f3k: Bel\u00e9nyi D\u00e1niel)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201eAz \u00edg\u00e9retekkel szemben itt m\u00e9g 50 fok sincs!\u201d \u2013 panaszkodik nevetve egy utast\u00e1rsam.\u00a0\u201e\u00c1rny\u00e9kban m\u00e9red. De mi a napon vagyunk\u201d \u2013 mutatok a h\u0151m\u00e9r\u0151re, ami 58.6 Celsius fokot mutat \u00e9ppen a Land Cruiser l\u00f6kh\u00e1r\u00edt\u00f3j\u00e1ra t\u00e1masztva. A Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld ter\u00fclet\u00e9n aut\u00f3zunk, a F\u00f6ld legforr\u00f3bb hely\u00e9n, \u00e9s b\u00e9na humorral pr\u00f3b\u00e1ljuk elviselni valahogy az \u00e9lhetetlen kl\u00edm\u00e1t. \u00c1prilis van. M\u00e9g szerencse, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":19998,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[840],"tags":[479,480,649],"class_list":["post-19973","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-etiopia","tag-afrika","tag-etiopia","tag-latnivalok"],"yoast_head":"\nA pokol kapui: t\u00e1jak Afrika legm\u00e9lyebb \u00e9s legforr\u00f3bb szeglet\u00e9ben\u00a0<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A Danakil-m\u00e9lyf\u00f6ld F\u00f6ld\u00fcnk legforr\u00f3bb pontja. \u00c9lm\u00e9nybesz\u00e1mol\u00f3 arr\u00f3l, milyen egy kir\u00e1ndul\u00e1s a Pokol kapuj\u00e1ban.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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